Five Days in Varanasi: A Sketching Journey with Kalaarambh

December 2025 | Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh

Some cities are not just visited — they are experienced, felt, and slowly absorbed. Varanasi is one such place. In December 2025, I had the opportunity to spend five deeply immersive days in this ancient city with Kalaarambh, a collective of artists from across India. What unfolded was a journey of people, faith, art, learning, and quiet personal growth.

This blog is a reflection of those five days — through streets, ghats, paint-stained hands, shared wisdom, and moments that will stay with me forever.

Day 1: Solo Walks, Faith, and First Conversations

Varanasi streets by night

I arrived in Varanasi alone, a little tired from travel but filled with anticipation. Before joining the group, I spent the day walking through the narrow, timeless streets of the old city. Varanasi has a way of pulling you into conversations — with shopkeepers, pilgrims, boatmen, and strangers who quickly feel familiar.

That day, with the help of kind locals, I was able to have darshan at Kashi Vishwanath — one of the most sacred Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva — and later at Kalbhairav, the fierce guardian deity of the city. Both experiences felt grounding, almost like a quiet reassurance before the artistic journey ahead.

A bustling malaiyo vendor in Varanasi serves the frothy, saffron-laden treat to eager customers, with clay pots stacked and ready under the warm glow of shop lights.

Day 2: Painting at Assi Ghat – Where the Day Begins

Assi Ghat Varanasi

Assi Ghat, located close to my hotel, became my workspace for the day. Known as the confluence of the Ganga and Assi rivers, it is one of the most vibrant ghats — especially in the morning.

I spent the entire day painting there, surrounded by the rhythm of prayers, boats, sadhus, and curious onlookers. Something special happened — two of my paintings were sold right there on location. It wasn’t just about the sale; it felt like a quiet validation that my work was connecting with people beyond words.

Boats at Assi Ghat in Varanasi

Day 3: Learning, Observing, and the Magic of Ganga Aarti

My Assi Ghat painting

The third day was dedicated entirely to art and learning. We began again at Assi Ghat and later moved to Chet Singh Ghat, known for its historic fort and layered steps — a dream subject for urban sketchers.

The day included painting sessions and live demos by master artists Vikrant Shitole, Bijay Biswaal, and Vijay Achrekar. Watching them work up close was a masterclass in itself — not just technique, but approach, patience, and storytelling through art.

As evening fell, I witnessed the Ganga Aarti — a spectacle of fire, chants, bells, and devotion. Even after seeing it multiple times in photos and videos, experiencing it in person is something else entirely.

Amidst a mystical haze, priests perform the Ganga Aarti in Varanasi, captivating a mesmerized crowd along the sacred riverbank.

Day 4: Ghats, Local Flavours, and an Unexpected Pause

An artist holds a painting capturing the serene view of Rana Mahal Ghat, with its historic architecture and vibrant boats dotting the river, near the famous Dashaswamedh Ghat in Varanasi.

Day four took us to Dashashwamedh Ghat, one of the oldest and most important ghats in Varanasi, followed by Mahanirvani Ghat, known for its spiritual significance and quieter atmosphere.

The entire day went into painting — observing light, shadows, rituals, and life unfolding along the river. In the evening, I stepped away from the ghats to explore local markets and taste Banaras’ famous street food.

Unfortunately, the day ended on a difficult note as I fell sick at night and had to consult a doctor. It was a reminder that travel has its unpredictability — and sometimes, the body asks for rest even when the mind wants to continue.

A tempting display of malai toast and creamy malai dishes, featuring vibrant toppings, ready to be savored along the bustling streets of Varanasi.

Day 5: Manikarnika Ghat, Gratitude, and New Motivation

A bustling scene at Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi, with vibrant buildings overlooking the sacred Ganges River. Smoky embers from a traditional cremation ceremony rise into the air, while boats navigate the waters, reflecting the deep cultural and spiritual significance of this revered site.

Our final day brought us to Manikarnika Ghat, one of the most spiritually powerful places in India. Known as the eternal cremation ground, it represents the cycle of life, death, and liberation. Painting here required sensitivity, stillness, and respect.

I had the honour of sitting beside Padmashree awardee artist Vasudeo Kamath while painting. He took a moment to observe my work and admired it — a small but deeply meaningful moment for me.

Selfie with Padmashree Vasudeo Kamath

Bijay Biswaal admiring my work

In the evening, we concluded the journey with a farewell and exhibition. Master artists from across India appreciated my work and encouraged me to keep going. By the end of the trip, 5 out of my 8 paintings had found new homes — something I am deeply grateful for.

Looking Back: More Than Just a Trip

This Varanasi journey with Kalaarambh was not about ticking places off a list. It was about slowing down, observing deeply, learning from masters, and trusting my own artistic voice.

Selling paintings, receiving encouragement, and being part of such a supportive artistic community reassured me that I am moving in the right direction — step by step, sketch by sketch.

Varanasi gave me stories, lessons, and memories — and I carry them forward, both on paper and within.

Thank you for reading. More sketches, stories, and journeys coming soon.